Making good progress!

Beavering away on the construction of the waistcoat. I started with the back, mainly to put off the awful point at which I needed to cut into the embroidered pieces! The back is fine white linen, with a lining of coarser unbleached linen. The gusset for the back vent is made of the white linen. The eyelets are had-stitched (of course!) and didn't take nearly as long as the ones I did for my corset. Thinner layers of fabric, much easier! The lacing is cotton tape. Straight-laced, as the one at Te Papa should be, as the eyelets are offset. It was a little amusing that they had tried to cross-lace the back of the Te Papa waistcoat, despite the evidence of offset eyelets.

Then on to the business bit. I did the pocket flaps first: smaller, quicker to restitch if disaster struck. I had tried a few short seams with the tapa cloth to see how it worked. Actually it's not bad, provided you take account of the "grain" direction. The pocket flaps worked well, not too bulky at the corners. I lined them with the white linen.

Then I started work on the left front. I've turned the hem edge in and tacked it to the backing fabric and the buckram stiffener facing. It work well along the line of the embroidery on the front edge. Now I'm working on the buttonholes, which are stitched before the lining is fitted. This allows the lining to be replaced more easily if it gets dirty or damaged. They are worked with waxed linen thread, and I'm using the inner edge of the tamboured chain stitch as a gimp thread. This gives a bit more strength to the stitching.

Next stop: the pocket!

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